‘STAPLED’ OVER A SUFBOARD
Surfing a beach break, 18 years old.
I took off on a wave that quickly ‘hollowed out’
and was breaking in a way there was not going to be
enough time to stand up on the board
and ‘make the drop’.
In this situation, it is best to get as far away from the board as quickly as possible.
SIMPLY PUSH THE BOARD AWAY
Usually both hands are put onto the top of the board,
then extending the arms to push to board to one side
with the rider to the opposite side so when the wave breaks over,
there is separation between the rider and the board.
At first, the board moved away as usual and all looked good for a ‘safe wipe out’.
SUDDENLY NOT SO SIMPLE
Unfortunately as I pushed the board away, ‘backwash’ water came up the wave
and reversed the board back towards me.
Even more unfortunately,
the backwash was also forcing the board edge-wise towards my left side
and there was no way I could push the board back against that backwash.
The wave broke over me and I was very close to the shore.
‘STAPLED’ TO THE BOARD’S EDGE
The wave forced me down onto the board’s edge as the other edge hit
either very shallow water or the sand bottom.
Either outcome, I was ‘stapled’ sideways over the board’s edge
just below the left ribs, probably directly into the 12th rib.
I had the breath knocked out of me and I could hardly move.
It took at least a week and probably more
before the tenderness became much less of a problem to my movements.
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