FULL BODY LOCKUP - IN OCEAN #1
We were surfing ‘2nd lefts’ at a local surf break on a biggish day
- on the east coast of the North Isalnd of New Zealand -
about 6-8 foot, solid walls and lots of water in the wave.
HARD TO GET TO
This break was really only accessible by walking over a farmland hill.
Then from the top of the headland, with board under one arm
and the other used to hold onto scrub, one edged down the hill’s south side,
down to the boulderish bay where it was easy to paddle out to
in front of the boulder-littered front of the headland
A BIT OF A LULL
After catching a few waves there was a lull and after a while,
a few of us paddled to ‘the inside’ in the hope of catching another wave.
Usually I would paddle further out, but this time I moved inwards.
A couple of small waves came through that proved too slow to catch,
but now I was really on the inside.
“OUT THE BACK”
A usual ‘warning’ that a bigger set was coming through
but instead of the other surfers paddling out towards the waves,
they paddled more to the side and I soon saw why!
SIX DOUBLE-SIZED WAVES
The lull was now obviously the precursor
to one set of waves catching up with another,
creating a full set of six waves of which I could only see the first three,
each bigger than the one in front.
I was well and truely ‘caught on the inside’.
SURVIVING THE FIRST THREE
The first wave came through as all white water - about 5-6 foot of it
and tumbled me towards the boulders.
I got back on the board to paddle a little before the second wave hit.
Again I got pushed towards the boulders and again got back on my board
to paddle towards the next wall of white water.
After getting through that second one I could feel myself getting quickly weak.
I think I yelled out for help but the closest guy was busy paddling
so he wouldn’t get hit by the nexy wave too hard -
besides, the roar of the waves meant it was like yelling in outer space.
I was by myself!
Boom … next one hit.
FULL-BODY LOCK HITS!
I went to reach out for the leg rope to pull my board back to me
and three things happened almost simultaneously
- my neck, arms and legs locked tight -
suddenly I was unable to swim let alone float …
I was about to sink and fast!
Out my right eye I could see I was still very close to the boulders.
Out my left eye I could see three more waves still coming.
Was this the end of me?
MOVE OR DROWN!
I knew I could only save myself so I desparately reached for the leg rope again -
I heard a tearing sound inside my head and felt a searing bolt of pain everywhere!
But at least I could move again.
I got on my board and paddled toward the white water wall as best I could.
Bang! Then again. Then again.
EERIE ALMOST SILENCE
The sea was foaming and hissing all around me,
but I could see no more waves coming, so I paddled to the side
and away from being in front of any other waves.
I could sort of hear but not really.
The other guys were oblivious to my experience
and were more cock-a-hoot they had mostly got out of the way.
STILL HAD THE HILL TO CLIMB
I was totally exhausted and a bit freaked out.
I paddled back into the bay
and began the long steep haul back up the hill.
It was an experience I felt I never wanted to repeat again.
But it did happen again - years later - though thankfully in much smaller surf.
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