FULL BODY LOCKUP - IN OCEAN #2
Not as scary as the first ‘ocean lockup’ -
as this one occurred in much smaller surf.
NOT SURFING MUCH
After the first lockup incident,
I did surf fairly consistently for about another year
- including in some heavy surf situations -
with no other lockup incidents occuring.
MOVED TO WEST OZ
In the mid 1980s, I moved to the south west of Western Australia
and got in an occasional surf - usually in ‘lightish’ conditions for that region.
OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE SURF
In the early part of 1990, I got an opportunity to have a surf in okish conditions -
smallish swell at one of the prime surf reefs of the area.
I had not surfed for at least 3 years.
GOT A WAVE
After paddling out, it didn’t take too long to catch a wave,
which I rode from the side of the reef into the sandy bay.
It felt great to ride a wave again.
The wave ‘piddled’ out and I lazily leaned myself off the board
and fell into the cool clear water -
it felt so good.
LOCKED UP - AGAIN!
After surfacing I went to reach out for the leg rope and bang!
the same simultaneous lockup-bolt hit my neck, arms and legs.
Again I could not move, so was unable to keep myself afloat -
I quickly started to sink.
A very small foam wave was coming towards me
and although it wouldn’t drown me,
I knew I would be ‘swamped’ by it.
THAT TEARING BOLT OF PAIN AGAIN
I knew from the first lockup that I just had to force myself
to grab the leg rope and pull the board towards me -
which I did with the same sound of tearing in my head
and a searing bolt of pain right through my body.
I got onto the board and slowly paddled to shore.
LAST SURF
Once I got to shore, I decided I would not surf
until I had confidence that I would not lockup in the water again.
I have since boogie-boarded and body-surfed in shore breaks,
but have never felt confident enough of ‘no lockup’
to have a go at surfing since.
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